![]() ![]() And Subaru doesn't build the cars for 100k miles and then all hell breaks loose. ![]() These boxers do not operate like an inline or V engine. It's all good that you want to help, just please refrain from common diagnostics. Plus, since I remove the radiator for timing belt service to make the job easier and quicker, the thermostat is just two bolts This is the second post I've come across this morning where poor advice was given. No telling how long they'll continue to work, but I'm not testing that theory since when it fails it's costly. The thermostats are a maintenance item and get changed with the spark plugs/timing belt service as a generality, but I've tested thermostats in the past after 100-105k miles and they continue to work and still appear "new" with resin in place when proper coolant was used. The OEM water pumps on these engines last a good amount of mileage, well into 200k miles range, without problems unless tap water is used. Then put the cap on.Īlso, this theory that if it runs hot after your method of refilling/burping means the thermostat or water pump is bad is bogus. When bubbling stops, shut the car off and let it sit so the coolant contracts down in to the system. Then you continue to idle the engine to allow the thermostat to cycle open a few times. When you have heat the heater core is getting coolant. This is when you check for consistent heat out of the vents with the heater on. Start the engine, keep the funnel at half and after 3-5 minutes rev the engine to 4k rpm a few times to force coolant through the system. When first filling the system, after the coolant stops filling the radiator, put the funnel at half full. This activates all the electrical parts, solenoids, switches, etc, on the drivetrain including cycling the fans on/off.įiling the system absent using a vacuum pump requires the use of a fast fill funnel and time. It's not a Ford.Īs for testing the fans without running the engine, you can connect the green diagnostic test connectors and turn the key on. There is not a valve on the heater core system. This will find any leaks.Ĭlick to expand.You don't build up pressure, you pull a vacuum on the system. I would also recommend you ask your mechanic to pressure test the system. Which ever method the mechanic does, it is still in good practice to drive the car afterwards and run the heat full blast. If you still don't have heat coming out of the heater core after the engine is reporting hot, then either the thermostat needs to be changed, the water pump is starting to fail, and/or you have a leak. You should start to feel heat coming out. This will open the valve in your, dash to allow the antifreeze to circulate inside the heat core. On my older cars, once the bubbles are let out, then put the cap back on start the car and put your heat on full blast. So as you are filling the radiator you have to squeeze the top radiator hose, like you are pumping the brakes in the car. ![]() The downside with this method is you have to burp the system. The non-pressurized way, is just pour antifreeze back into the engine. This will draw a vacuum and since Air is denser than a vacuum, the antifreeze will take place of that vacuum, this filling up the antifreeze system. Then they get a bucket of antifreeze, hook it up to other end of the pressure gun and release the pressure. The pressurized way, is after the system is empty or rid of Antifreeze, they take a pressure tester and build up to 12-15 lbs of pressure. There are two ways to re-fill antifreeze back into the system the pressurized way or the non-pressurized way. I have not tried this on my 2006 or newer, so I don't know if that feature still applys. Turn your A/C on and the fans should automatically turn on. Turn your keys to the run position, but don't start the engine. With my 2003 outback, I was able to turn on my fans on without the car running. The drivers side fan is call the main engine fan. ![]() The passenger side fan, is called the a/c fan (Secondary/Sub fan) and is on a different relay and fuse from the drivers side fan (Primary). If anyone of the fans are not spinning at all, then you might have a blown fuse. Also check to make sure the fans are not wobbly. If they come to an abrupt halt, then it is possible you might have a fan on the way out. They should operate smoothly and come to a slow stop. So drive the car, till you heat up your engine to 203, then right away pull over and pop the hood, make sure both fans are spinning and is moving air. Then when the temperature falls down to 195 the fans turned off. At 203 degrees f, both radiator fans turned on. My 20 outback, both were programmed the same way for temperature. For starters I would recommend you getting yourself a OBD2 scan tool and monitor the engine temp, while you are driving the car. ![]()
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